Sagalassos, Turkey is an amazing place to see. So to help you, I want to tell you the 24 best things to see when you visit. Or better yet, allow you to sit back and enjoy everything that you would see at the city itself. This is how it’s structured.
In this blog I will try to give you four things for each item.
- A good picture of the site.
- Tell you what is interesting about it.
- Show a picture of the actual sign in front of it that explains it (in English, German and Turkish).
- Show any good photo opportunity spots.
Getting to Sagalassos
Sagalassos is quite remote in comparison to other ancient cities. We came from Konya, so we decided to span the trip over two days, stopping first in Egirdir. Wow! What an unexpected surprise that was. Besides the beautiful peninsula, there were caves, a castle and stunning views. But alas, I will leave that for another post.
Distances from Salagassos to:
- Isparta – 48 km (30 miles)
- Antalya – 118 km (73 miles)
- Izmir – 423 km (263 miles)
- Istanbul – 609 km (378 miles)
- Ankara – 430 km (267 miles)
- Konya – 285 km (177)
The last few kilometres approaching Sagalassos is not for the faint of heart. The road is winding, steep and narrow. A jaw clenching experience in some places. Maybe I’m just a pansy but I recommend taking it slow.
Once you reach the peak it is all worth it. The views are stunning. The city in many ways resembles Teremessos, a city at the top of a mountain. There was ample free parking and a rest area to enjoy a break.
Entrance to the city
We travelled with our Turkish Muzekart, a pass that will get you into almost all museums in Turkey. Here is the entrance:
Likely you cannot read the prices and info for entry so I will tell you. These are 2020 prices.
- Adult entry: 12 TL
- Children: Free
- Muzekart pass (gets you into all museums): 60 TL
- Park hours 8am to 8pm.
Here are the sites at Sagalassos. All have a number according to the map. The top three sites are in bold.
- Alexander’s hill
- Hadrian and Antonius Pius Shrine for the emperor cult
- Early Byzantine Fortification Wall
- Grand Colonnaded Street
- Tiberian Gate
- Lower Agora
- Severan Nymphaeum
- Late Hadrianic Nymphaeum
- Christian basilica inside the Shrine of Apollo Klarios
- Odeon
- Imperial baths
- Urban Mansion
- Macellum (food market)
- Upper agora
- Antonine Nymphaeum
- Bouleuterion (Council Hall)
- Basilica of St. Michael
- Doric Temple
- Northwest Heroon
- Martyrion inside the Stadion
- Hellenistic Fountain House
- Neon Library
- Theatre (Stadium)
- Potter’s Quarter
After spending an exhausting day visiting them all, I want to share the best of what we saw. My hope is that you will be able to pick in advance what you want to see. I will show the highlights according to the number used on their navigation map. Enjoy.
1. Alexander’s Hill
It’s name is Alexander’s Hill because this is where the residents of Sagalassos had their command center when fighting Alexander the Great * in 333 BC. The hill is strategically located in front of the city towards the valley and made a strategic center for defensive operations. However no remains of such events exist.
The broken tombs are at the bottom of the hill are some of the oldest in Turkey
Here is the sign at the base of the hill explaining it’s importance.
2. Hadrian and Antonius Pius Shrine for Emperor Worship
Emperor Hadrian (117-138 AD) made the city a center for Emperor worship and declared Sagalassos an official religious center for the province of Pisidia.
This large temple was built for emperor Hadrian. It’s completion date is after his death under the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius. There is an inscription on the temple dedicating it to both Hadrian and Antoninus Pius.
Archaeologists believe that the emperors put their sculptures inside. Romans from all over the province would come regularly to worship at the temple.
Today it is not much to look at. Looks more like a big jigsaw puzzle for archaeologists.
In 2007 and 2008 large sculptures were discovered of Faustina the Elder (wife of Antoninus Pius) as well as Marcus Aurelius.
3. Early Byzantine Fortification Wall
I don’t know why this was highlighted on the map. Perhaps I just don’t know enough about it. There was no sign explaining anything about it, but I include a picture of it.
4. Grand Colonnaded Street
This street has porticos and both sides and was built around 50 AD. It originally had rows of columns on each side and was essentially the main entrance to the city. People would come up the hill, past Alexander’s Hill and walk this road up to the city.
5. The Tiberian Gate
When the colonnade street was built during the reign of Tiberius (14-37 AD), gates were built on both ends of the street. They were simply monumental and had served no defense of the city.
The gates were very ornate and representative of the “golden age” that had begun under Emperor Augustus (31 BC – 14 AD). Though the gates are broken to pieces, here is a pic (above) of one of the columns showing the ornate detail.
6. The Lower Agora of Sagalassos
Built during the reign of Emperor Augustus (27 BC – 14 AD). This Agora was very similar to the Upper Agora of the city except that it had inscriptions dedicated to important citizens. You can still find some of these inscriptions.
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| The sign explaining the Lower Agora. |
7. The Severan Nymphaeum
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| The Severan Nymphaeum |
Archaeologists date this at about 200 AD under Trajan (98-117 AD). This would be the first such fountain that people arriving in Sagalassos would see.
After Hadrian, came the Severan dynasty of Roman emperors who ruled from 193-235 AD. They partly dismantled the fountain and erected a new one almost identical to the former about .4 meters in front of the previous. This space became a narrow service room.
Around the area of this fountain were found a variety of statues. This includes two small Nike statues erected during the Severan dynasty and were likely a roof ornament.
Here is the goddess Nike that that belongs with this fountain.
8. Late Hadrianic Nymphaeum
This fountain dates to about 129-132 AD. It is slightly above the Lower Agora and its dedication is to the Emperor Hadrian. A flight of eight steps leads you to the basin of the fountain. It was originally 17 meters high and was the only two story fountain in Salagassos. It was situated in such a way that visitors entering the Grand Colonnaded Street (see point 4) would see it towering above the Severan Nymphaeum.
The fountain was commissioned by the first Roman knight of Sagalassos, Tiberius Claudius Piso. He ordered it’s construction in his will. He dedicated the monument to Emperor Hadrian. It was common in Roman provincial towns for local aristocrats and benefactors to dedicated monuments to the emperors. This helped them display their connections with Rome.
In the center of this fountain stood a large statue of Apollo. See below.
The fountain is also close to the Temple of Apollo and so its dedication is likely to this god.
The fountain was also much larger than it shows today. It likely collapsed soon after 500 AD and was never reconstructed.
9. Christian basilica inside the Shrine of Apollo Klarios
Emperor Augustus (27 BC – 14 AD) believed that victories were due to the protection of Apollo. He also felt that Apollo represents the virtues worthy of imitation in the Roman epmpire. This shrine was erected in his honor.
Later around the 5th century AD the building was converted to a Christian basilica. Most of the materials from this temple were reused to build the church. See #17.
10. The Odeon (Covered theatre)
The construction date on this theater is during the time of Emperor Augustus between 27 BC and 15 AD. Construction continued until it’s last update around the year 200 AD.
Seating capacity was about 1500 people and most likely used for city council meetings and the like. It is unknown exactly how many people could be seated because many of the stones were dismantled and used for other buildings.
11. The Imperial Baths of Sagalassos
What is most interesting about these baths is their date of construction. It is the earliest known Roman bathing center in Asia Minor. It’s building date is believed to be older than the one at Miletus, built by Emperor Claudius (41-54 AD). Many now believe that this bath predates it by about 20 years, built during the reign of Augustus or Tiberius (10-30 AD).
Your not going to be able to see much at this spot. The baths have many layers of construction and materials of previous buildings and are unstable. The pictures above shows a mashup of building materials. There are however some openings that you can peek into, but they don’t reveal much.
12. The Urban Mansion
Those that had money invested in the decoration and infrastructure of Salagassos. In return, August Caesar granted them Roman citizenship and social prestige.
But beginning in the 4th century, a new class of super-rich landowners were spending more on their own personal building projects. The result: palace-like structures shown here.
In the late 4th and early 5th century, the private part of the villa had its own bath spaces, three inner courtyards,many private rooms and service spaces spread over two floors. The southernmost colonnaded courtyard is the largest known in Asia Minor.
13. Macellum (food market of Sagalassos)
What’s most interesting about this place is the centerpiece. It was a large basin of water. It’s purpose: to keep fish alive to sell in the open market.
14. Upper Agora of Sagalassos
This is the must see of Sagalassos. It was considered the heart of the city. It is the largest by size and has a beautiful fountain. These factors made it a good place for meetings and marketplaces.
When standing in this square, you will see four large columns on the corners. Each used to have a bronze statue of each benefactors and were so high (14 meters) that they could be seen all over the city.
Beginning in the first century, the Agora started filling up with monuments and turned into a museum almost on it’s own.
It’s interesting to look at the floor in this Agora. You can see small holes in the stones to hold up market stalls and inscriptions assigning the stalls to specific individuals.
15. Antonine Nymphaeum of Sagalassos
This is by far the crown jewel of Sagalassos. It is difficult to find a more beautiful and Instagram-worthy photo from the ancient Roman world. Let’s just say we took most of our pictures at this spot. You must see a video to appreciate the running water in the fountain. It’s beautiful.
One amazing thing about this fountain is the restoration. The fountain was found completely collapsed and broken in pieces – 3500 of them to be exact. It took two years to assemble them (1998-2000). It then took a further 6 years (2001-2007) to make the missing pieces that were structurally necessary. Then another 2 years (2008-2010) to assemble it all to the final construction. A 12 year project! But so worth it.
It’s important to know that only two of the statues are original to the fountain – the one of Dionysos and Satyr. The others of Nemesis, Apollo, Asklepios and Koronis are all copies of the originals that are in the museum in nearby Burdur. They look new and are therefore easy to identify.
Here are the signs beside it for more information.
16. Bouleuterion (Council Hall)
The council hall is somewhat unimpressive, but it is extremely significant today. This place is proof that the city had an elected city council in the first century, a model that is still in effect until today.
17. Basilica of St. Michael
This is the first church in the ancient city of Salagassos, built about 400 AD. It used building materials from the temple of Apollo and other buildings. The church was likely devoted to the archangel Michael who was widely vernerated in Pisidia at the time.
The church was in use for only about 100 years until it was seriously damaged by an earthquake. Work got underway to restore it. But it was likely delayed by the plague in 541-542 and was never completed. It then collapsed after another major earthquake around 600 AD. By then there were already several other churches in Sagalassos.
18. Doric Temple of Sagalassos
This is an early temple built in the city (between 50 and 25 BC). Pretty much only the walls remain. The temple was built in dedication to the God Zeus and was regarded as the principle God at that time in the province of Pisidia.
Around 400 AD the temple was abandoned, like many other temples at that time. The materials were used to build other structures.
19. Northwest Heroon of Sagalassos
A Heroon is simply a shrine in dedication to a hero of the time. It is designed to invoke worship of that person It is unknown for whom this shrine was erected. But that person likely introduced worship of Dionysos since she is two times on the reliefs.
Please note that the beautiful friezes that you see of the women dancing around are not the originals. The originals are in the museum at the nearby town Burdur. They are nonetheless beautiful and you can get up close and get your picture alongside them.
20. Martyrium inside a Stadium
This site is a little off the beaten path. Most don’t go to see it. And to be honest, I didn’t go. I am told that it is a burial place inside a small theater used for the burial of early Christians. I have no way of confirming it though.
21. Helenistic Fountain House
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| The water really does look that green. |
This fountain was a later addition to the city as it tripled in size between 50 BC and 50 AD. An earthquake later destroyed it around 500 AD. However it was still of some use and piping was built from it to other parts of the city.
Here we enjoy a refreshing hand wash from it’s cool mountain water. The water is a light green color, perhaps due to the sun, or maybe algae. Though the water seemed clean.
22. Neon Library of Sagalassos
This is a beautiful library if it is open. For us it was unfortunately not open. However were able to get some pictures.
The inside has a beautiful mosaic floor.
The construction date on this library is approximately 120 AD. Local wealthy residents built it to show off their wealth and leave behind a legacy. The library gets it’s name from the builder – Titus Flavius Severianus Neon. He built it in honor of his deceased father.
23. The Theatre (Stadium)
This stadium seats about 9000 people, though the population of Sagalassos at the time (120 AD) was 5000. The reason is that Sagalassos would be hosting events for the entire province of Pisidia.
Archaeologists found reliefs of gladiators and animal hunting in this theatre. Besides these performances, the stadium was also for gladiatorial contests.
24. Potter’s Quarter
This is easy to miss. Once you get to the stadium, this is just over the hill. Be careful! There is a lot of stinging nettle in and around the stadium. If you stay on the trail you will be ok. Take the trail up and behind the stadium and it will lead to it.
Some questions:
Why did people settle on this mountain top?
There were several reasons.
- Defense. It is much easier to defend from a hill.
- Water. You can’t have a city in the mountains without water.
- Stones. The mountain was a natural source for building stones and ores for metal production.
Who lived in Sagalassos and when?
During the third millenium BC, the Luwians settled in the region and it later became known as Pisidia. Luwians were related to the Hittites. Alexander the Great later conquered the city and it adopted elements of ancient Greek culture. During the Roman Imperial period, they mixed Greek and Roman cultures. From the year 400 AD onwards, residents of Sagalassos were Christian and subject to the Byzantine Empire. They were then absorbed into the Seljuk Turkish Empire in the 13th century.
What does Sagalassos mean?
The exact meaning of Sagalassos is unknown. The only thing we know is that it is a typical Luwian name.
How did the residents make a living?
Sagalassos was famous for a specially pottery called ‘Sagalassos red slip ware’, or locally made table wares. They could be found only in Western Anatolia and many other places throughout the Mediterranean.
Sagalassos was a farming based economy, especially delivering grain to the Roman troops. During Roman Imperial times, olive cultivation also fourished. The residents also exported fir trees to Egypt which were used for shipbuilding and construction.
When did they leave the city and why?
The population at certain points could have reached 5000 people. But in 541-542 AD the numerous waves of the bubonic plague ravaged the population, cutting it in half. Then a powerful earthquake leveled the city around 610 AD. Many residents stayed and tried to rebuild what they could. Then Seljuks destroyed the last stronghold of the city on Alexander’s Hill in the 13th century AD. From that point on the city was uninhabited.
How was Sagalassos rediscovered?
Paul Lucas rediscovered the site in 1706 when he undertook a journey through the Ottoman Empire at the request of Frenh King Louis XIV. However he didn’t know the name of the city. Then in 1824 English traveller F. Adrunell deciphered the name of Sagalassos in an inscription.
Who is excavating the city? Who is financing it?
The site has been under excavation since 1990 by the University of Leuven in Belguim under Professor Marc Waelkens. The financing comes from benefactors of the Belgian state. Families, companies and banks have all had a share in financing the excavations. Additionally, Turkish companies such as AYGAZ have joined sponsorship.
Where do the finds go?
All finds go to the Museum of Burdur at the end of each excavation season. There the most beautiful items are on display. You will see replicas in their place at Sagalassos.
Tips before you go:
- Do your research (it saves so much time on site)
- Scan the QR codes on each sign for info in English
- There is stinging nettle, be careful.
- Bring lots of water
Sagalassos was a real fun trip and I hope what I share will help you too. Don’t forget to visit the museum in Burdur. All the best artifacts ended up there. I will try to make another post on this. I have blogs to other ancient cities in Turkey. Find them here. Take care.
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